3rd Gen 4runner Rear Suspension Diagram

Bcrainshaw [OP] New Member

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Currently have an 2002 4Runner limited with 223k. Runner has original suspension so I'm looking to replace. I know there is a million threads on this and I have read through them so I'm gonna make this quick and easy..... I want a 1 to 2inch lift from where I'm now which may just be some oem replacements? I would like a list of what some of y'all experts would suggest getting. I literally got to replace in like the next week.... I'm off road 30% of the time FYI.
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I trust these guys...Looks like there's only one left.....,,,,
Bcrainshaw [OP] New Member

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Thank you! Any other suggestions, maybe cheaper or is that pretty much whet I'm gonna be?
Really, I'd suggest between OME Nitrocharger shocks and OME springs or Bilstein shocks with OME springs all around.
Both offer great on road and off road manners, with the OME being a little on the stiffer side (better for off road).

You haven't stated a budget, but as far as value goes, what I mentioned is the best bang for the buck.
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Budget.... 500-600 purchase suspension then pay 275 for installation.
Makes no sense to pay for installation.
You can do it all with basic hand tools.

That ups your budget to buy everything you need from Bilstein or OME which is going to be a step up from that Eibach setup.
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I'm competent on motor stuff but suspension stuff idk. Have never attempted to compress springs so unsure on that. I guess if they are pre-assembled then yea!
Here are pictures I took when I did my front coilovers, rear shocks, springs, and bump stops -
Just pictures of the front and rear shocks

The rear springs, only bought 2 different types because I knew I'd be switching them over again once I added weight in the rear.

The rear stock setup.

The small area of access for the rear shock; ended up just twisting the shock body by hand to remove it.

With enough droop, the rear springs are easily pulled out by hand.

New springs required a tiny bit of finesse to put in there since they're taller.

Rear shocks side by side.

Bump stops held in by a simple bolt; you won't need to replace yours though.

New shocks in place.

Front coilover off.

New coilover on.
You can buy either the OME Nitrochargers with springs installed as a 'coilover'; the same option exists from most vendors when buying Bilstein 5100 front shocks and OME springs. There's a small assembly charge.
If you bought them separately though, you can easily pay a shop to put them together for you for about 15-25 bucks.

You can even rent a free spring compressor, but I hate those and would never use one.
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Awesome man! I appreciate all the help. I'm going to look into these options right now and try to order something by tomorrow evening
Make sure you before you order that you look around to see if they're a vendor here or on Tacomaworld. You'll find promo coupons in case said vendor doesn't automatically give you a promo discount for signing up online.
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Not to get all blasphemous but if I'm not doing anything to extreme other than trail ride would a Monroe/ Kyb with 1-2inch puck lift be alright or absolutely hell no?
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Not to get all blasphemous but if I'm not doing anything to extreme other than trail ride would a Monroe/ Kyb with 1-2inch puck lift be alright or absolutely hell no?
Those spacers will preload your suspension and give you a rough ride, not to mention killing your shocks off a lot quicker.
Just another thing to keep in mind, when I went to a 2.5" lift, I really put some strain on my CV axles which caused the inner boots to tear (very common).
Keep your lift an honest 1-2" max, and you shouldn't run into any issues. If you end up with something a bit taller though, I would recommend ordering a set of High Angle Inner CV Boot's. Being that they're quality boots, I would opt to install these only on OEM CV axles. Installing them on store brand axles or the like will just be a waste of money as nothing is as strong or reliable as OEM with the exception of RCV axles ($2k a pair). I do run O'Reilly's Extended Travel set but have multiple OEM CV axles I keep as spares that I've yet to ever need or use.

So again, if exceeding 2" of lift...continue reading -

Before passenger axle.

After passenger axle.

Before driver axle.

After driver axle.

You can see the CV axle boots don't rub even with the angle they're at.

The front isn't the only issue though, the rear needs addressing too.

When you lift the rear, your panhard bar is no longer sitting horizontally but instead, is slightly tilted.

Now, the real solution is getting Eimkeith's panhard correction kit welded on. For minimal lift, you would use part 1 of his kit which is a bracket welded on the axle side of the panhard bar which raises the mounting point a bit. This means you can keep your stock panhard bar and maintain near-factory drivability. I will be going his kit installed but for the meanwhile, I opted for a larger and adjustable bar. The bar is lengthened which helps to center the axle in relation to the frame, but with the angle still in play, causes the axle to 'pull' one way when the suspension is flexed.

This 'pulling' is minimized by keeping the rear sway bar on, but isn't fixed which is why it's still something I need to do. Once that's done, I'll be removing the rear sway bar altogether.
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I actually love KYB, I'm running a set on the Z28 and my SandRail...,,,
I installed a set of shocks from Advance Auto, not sure what brand, I didn't have to replace my stockers but felt it was time..

Last edited: Feb 12, 2021
Bcrainshaw [OP] New Member

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That's what's crazy... I'm finding it hard to find a simple 1inch lift. I assume just putting oem replacement will get me close.
Bcrainshaw [OP] New Member

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if you know of a good set up please list
Well, going with new OEM components will raise you back up to stock height.
Shocks should normally be replaced at 50k-70k miles, and coils roughly double that, all depending on how you drive.

It's amazing how some will keep their suspension on for over 100k miles...even double sometimes. The shocks have no damping and the coils are sagging, having one lose quite a bit of ride height.

As far as a small lift, there are threads dedicated to the many rear spring options you can go with depending on weight carrying capacity, as well as height over stock.

For the front, Bilstein 5100's have a clip in which you can raise/lower preload to achieve more or less height over stock which will help get that 1-1.5" of lift desired (with the right spring).